Last night, when we were on the second or third lap of our Tawaf for Umrah, there was suddenly a commotion in front of us. We thought somebody had collapsed or something like that but when we got to the spot of the incident, we saw a cute pile of shit and someone was frantically warning other pilgrims of the booby trap.
Now, how could that happen? Whoever who did it must have squatted to do it, given the texture of the stuff. What was he thinking? It must have been a "he" because we males don't wear underwear under our Ihram. I can't help thinking it was deliberate!
That beat everything that happened during our tawaf Haji. We did that on the day after Wukuf, on Hari Raya Haji, after Zohor. The crowd was at its peak. We were not allowed to enter at ground level so we went to the first floor which meant a bigger circumference to traverse. Not only that. Because of the huge pillars and the massive crowd, we were squeezed in bottlenecks every 10/20 yards. So we went downstairs after the first lap. Downstairs, it was like being ground nuts in a frying pan. It was literally shoulder to shoulder and you can move only with very small steps. Actually, all you need to do is to stay on your feet and allow the forces around you to move you in the right direction. The usual mix was there that day. You can't help thinking that national pride was somehow at stake like at the Olympics as many were dressed in their national colors or brightly coloured uniforms provided by their travel agents and sponsors. I guess that's so that they can easily identify each other in the crowd but uniforms also tend to boost team spirit and generate over-exuberance in what should be a solemn endeavor. You see them deploy various tactics in order to "win", whatever winning means in their minds. Some well-built Africans would form an elbow-to-elbow chain and steam-roll anything/anyone that dares get in their way. Indonesians are fond of forming long-trains with a nippy guy built like a rugby hooker in front. He would use his hands to get ahead of the person in front and once he's through, the whole train gets through. These kind of groups would often have a leader to loudly read the recommended supplications, to be recited when you perform the Tawaf, followed by members of his flock. So while doing the Tawaf, you hear Arabic scripts being recited in various dialects and slangs ranging from East European to Chinese, Urdu, Iranian and Indon Malay which make quite a cacophany. Then there are those who seemed to be in such a weak and precarious position (like an egg at the tip of a horn?) that you wonder why they were there at all eg. a young family with Papa carrying a baby, Mama walking beside him and 3 year old daughter who must be panic stricken walking in front of them. Amidst all these, you got the spoilers - people who think that that was the best time to try to kiss the Hajaratul Aswad, to cling to the black cloth covering the Kaabah like bats, to touch the door of the Kaabah etc. and after getting blessed that way, feel they have been conferred the divine right to move against traffic flow to go straight to wherever they want to go, irregardless of the problem they cause to people doing the Tawaf.
On our third lap, we heard a loud commotion in front of us. A few steps later, we saw what caused it. A tall and well-built strapping young man was being led away. There was a huge lump below his left eye, as if his eye had been dislodged off its socket. Then, another smaller man was being led away, with a bloodied broken nose. It had to happen!
Later on, I pointed out the irony to Mai - That six feet tall young man got hurt really bad doing the tawaf that day. But the helpless three year old girl most probably finished unscathed!
Footnote: Our own Tawaf Haji ended very well. We finished just as the Asar azan was called. Somehow space cleared up for us to pray Sunat Tawaf behind Makam Ibrahim and recite the recommended doa undisturbed.
KAB
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